Our trip to Bardia
Thursday, October 15, 2009 at 10:54AM We are home from Bardia. As much as I'd like to tell you we had the perfect trip, that everything went smoothly and as planned with no bumps in the road, no issues and no problems, life with 26 kids just doesn't seem to be that way. In short, here's what I learned. When you plan a trip also plan on the fact that NOTHING will go as planned. As you'll see in the pictures we had a great great time and here's what happened!
Our two vans came to pick us up at 8 am sharp Sunday morning. The kids sprinted into the vans as fast as they could, all fighting over who would get the best seats. This reminded me so much of summer drives on camping trips with my two sisters, it made me smile. The kids were so ecstatic they could barely contain themselves. It was many of their first rides in a van or vehicle ever. I thought I was prepared. I stocked up with dramamine, plastic bags and snacks. The road to the park is 5-6 hours with mostly all turns and switch backs. (If you are eating something, as you read this, right now would be a good time to stop.) Within two minutes of being in the van Rupa started dry heaving and Nisha had her head out the window. We stopped exactly 3 and 1/2 minutes after leaving our house for water bottles and more plastic bags.
Poor little Shanti was terrified. I guess a combination of leaving our home for the first time and the big scary van with all the excitement. She came and sat on my lap and snuggled up to my chest and wrapped her arms around my neck. I comforted her until she fell asleep. Twenty minutes later she opened her eyes, sat up facing me and projectile vomited. It was straight out of a scene in a movie and there was absolutely nothing I could do. The van was moving fast and I was in one of the back seats. I was so stunned that I just sat there and tried to catch it in my t-shirt without saying a word.
The van stopped just as Shanti stopped vomiting. Someone grabbed Shanti off my lap. We were all heaving. Sabita threw up and then Rupa and then Angeli. I got out of the car and stripped down to my sports bra and underwear. Maya was yelling that she had to go to the bathroom and I was yelling for someone to grab my bag with a change of clothes, only to remember seconds later that my bag was packed in the van ahead of us that was still on its way. (Lesson number one when traveling with 26 kids)
Prithi gave me his t-shirt and pants to wear. We cleaned everybody up and got back on the road. We finally got to one of the army check points (now just 40 minutes into the trip) and met up with the van ahead of us which Marky and Jordyn were manning. I could see Marky ahead of us tossing plastic vomit filled bags out the window.
I'm going to leave this story of the car ride behind and fast forward 5 hours later to when we at last we reach the gates into the national park. Just about every single kid had vomited every last parcel of food out of their stomach and now they were all starving. "I'm soooo hungry," "I'm so thirsty," "I have to go to the bathroom," (multiply times 26 little voices)
Our little bungalow lodge was smack in the middle of the park 15 km. into to the jungle. We passed through beautiful Tharu villages with mud huts with grass thatched roofs and watched the people go about their day's work. We passed through streams and beautiful forests into the heart of the jungle.
We finally arrived to main center of the park and called our lodge to send their jeep to come and guide us to where we'd be staying. As per my bank manager's (and good friend) recommendation and a few extended conversations with some travel agents last month I decided to book our stay at The Rhino Lodge. The lodge was very reasonably priced and had 5 cozy bungalows, each with two rooms and two bathrooms and a little front porch. Each of the rooms was named after one of the national park's animals; the tiger room, the crocodile room, the horn bill, the rhino room, the dolphin room, etc. There was a fantastic communal dining room with long tables for meals together and enough land with lots of trees, a fish pond, and open space for the children to roam freely. At night there was traditional Tharu dancing. I had booked all 5 of the bungalows so that we could have the place to ourselves with plenty of room. It could not have been a more perfect setting.
When we got to Rhino lodge the staff and management were staring at us with an "oh no" sort of look on their faces. One of the guides asked me to go and have a seat in their dining room to discuss our plans. So I left the kids there outside the vans and sat in the dining room where I was served a glass of coca cola and slowly the manager of the lodge broke the news.
A group of lovely Swiss Trekkers' who had been planning on doing a three week trek in Dhopla plans had gotten switched around and a travel agent and the hotel owner in Kathmandu had accidentally booked their stay at the last minute for the same night that we were supposed to be staying there. One of the groups was leaving the next morning and the other wasn't leaving until after we left. There was one bungalow left for us. One bungalow, two bathrooms and four beds for over thirty people. The manager said that they would have to shift most of us to another lodge that night. I panicked and freaked for a minute but finally took a deep breath and said okay.
"But we still have our elephant rides right? Our elephant rides? I booked them two weeks ago. We're supposed to ride first thing tomorrow morning. I sent the list of names and birthdays."
The manager looked at me silently.
"Your slot was taken by another group. The owner didn't make your tickets. We just talked to the park rangers and they don't have a single slot to fit you in."
And that's when I lost it. Right then and there I lost it.
I fought so hard to hold back the tears. I yelled and yelled some more. It was not one of my better moments.
"The children are starving. Can you please give us some lunch and I'll take them back home this evening. We've been planning this for months! How could you do this to us?"
"Wait, you didn't eat on the ride?" the manager said.
"NO!!!!" I screamed in my monster voice. "NO!!!!! I told you yesterday when when when (stuttering) I asked you to please prepare lunch for us. I didn't want them to eat on the road because I knew some of them would be car sick!! WHO the heck did I talk to yesterday???"
My heart was beating a million times a minute and all I could think of were the children's eyes outside sitting by the vans beaming with excitement.
"We'll cook up some noodles for you," the manager said quickly ordering to the kitchen staff "and I'll drive you down to the national park headquarters to talk with the rangers directly. If we explain the situation maybe they'll open a slot for you."
I walked outside trying to hide the panicked look on my face. The kids know me very well and knew something was up. I sent them into the dining room and told them that lunch was being made for us, asked them to be patient, and they marched silently into the dining hall.
I got in the jeep with the manager and jetted to to the park headquarters. I spent an hour begging and pleading with every ranger in the park. We called the head officers on the phone and they gave us an extra morning slot the next day at 6 o'clock sharp the next morning during the sunrise. The management of the hotel had lost the list with all of our names and birthdays so I rewrote it and made up birthdays and got our tickets and I could finally breathe again. (Thank you to the park for letting all of our children ride for free!) I got back to the lodge and the kids had all eaten and were playing ball and running around, happy as ever.
That evening we took a walk down to the elephant stables where there were at least ten elephants and little babies. It was all of our first times up and close with elephants and take my word if you haven't ever seen one they really are some of the most incredible animals on this planet. The anxiety of the day melted away. I decided right then and there to take what we were given and do what we could.
After the stables we walked down to a beautiful stretch of river with a rocky shore. The kids collected their favorite stones and watched the deer across the river. There was a little soccer field where they could play soccer with the village children. We got back to the lodge as the sun was setting and had a big dinner. By now the kids were exhausted but we stayed awake for the village dancing, set up our two rooms where we decided the small children and girls would sleep that night.
The boys, Marky, Prithi, Ubji and I hopped into the jeep and headed to another little lodge a few minutes up the road. The boys couldn't have been happier. It was like an adventure for them getting to go to a new place and sleeping in little mud huts with candles. (Minus the bed bugs, yes as in "don't let the bed bugs bite.") I also made the mistake of not informing Marky of Bhukta's sleeping tendencies. He ended up in a bed with Bhukta and Sagar and got kicked the entire night. (sorry!)
The next morning we woke up at 5 am and walked in the dark, crisp, cold air, along the river to the place where the elephants were going to pick us up. We met the other half of our group and shortly after 5 huge mama elephants and two babies came to pick us up for our rides. The ride was sooooo fun. Right at the beginning we crossed a huge deep river on the elephants' backs. The babies were swimming along side of us diving under the water and then coming up for air. They were so playful. We walked through meadows and jungles as the sun was rising. The elephants ate their breakfast along the way and we talked to the elephant keepers whose life's work it is to take care of and protect them. Most of these men having been doing this work for over 20 years. It was definitely the highlight of our trip and something we'll all remember for the rest of our lives. One of the best parts of the ride for me was watching Santosh sitting on the back of the elephant in front of me. He looked like a little prince perched up there, eyes bright, moving his head from side to side trying to soak it all in. Maya, staying true to character was pinching the other children on her elephant and had to be transferred mid air to sit with me. Jordyn accounted it best, saying, she looked back and all she could see was Maya throwing a tantrum 15 feet in the air being passed from one elephant to the other. Oh Maya.
I know this is getting long so I will just say this: The children were the happiest I've ever seen them. We shared a lot of laughs, good meals, and if I learned anything it is to surrender to any and all plans and be in the moment.
I abandoned the plans I'd had for the village tour and the Tharu museum and the conservation center. We spent our time running along side the river collecting stones, swimming, playing soccer, checking out the elephant stables, getting up close to alligators and crocodiles, and a few feet from an angry rhino. We shrieked with delight at the sight of deer and monkeys and played in an old log canoe. We took an elephant ride through the jungle!!
On the ride home one of our vans got stuck trying to cross a river. Everyone had to get out and push and push and push and it took us a good half an hour to get the van moving and out of the mud. On the highway we got stopped by police and a ticket for our vans not having the right permit. Then we hit a road block because of an accident and again, just about everybody vomitted.
But I just kept remembering our 26 children sitting on elephants riding through a beautiful jungle. I mean seriously talk about dreams coming true. It was all so so worth it.
I'd like to thank Jordyn and Marky, our volunteers for being here to share this with us. I'd like to thank my incredible staff, the children's aunties and uncles. We couldn't have done this without them. I'd like to thank the park rangers of Bardia National Park. I'd like to thank the elephants and their keepers. I'd like to thank our donors and sponsors for making all of this possible. I am so grateful.
Next up! Pictures!!
maggie doyne
Reader Comments (28)
laughed so hard it hurt and still hurts... so happy for all of you !!
Oh man...I had to remind myself to breath as I was reading. I was so busy getting mad at those park rangers!! Sounds like an amazing trip, can't wait to see pictures!!
Wow! My hat's off to you...you're a warrior! I'm so glad you were able to pull it all off and the children had a wonderful time.
wow.com take your two volunteers out for something special..... :) love ya
great story! that was VERY funny...had an image of the entire trip! haha.
Great leason of the day that you learned to: just gotta live in the moment sometimes! :)
Thanks for sharing the details, Maggie!!!
:)
-Sean
You are an amazing storyteller! I love the takeaway point: "be in the moment"
When the kids are all grown up, they will never forget this trip, and probably tell the tales to their children and children's children as well
Maggie,
You are such a great person, I can feel the expression that those children are so close to you. I am just so happy for those kids and feel so much respect for you for doing all these unconditional work to these kids.
ashok
You are an incredible trooper.
Amazing!
Love you
Dear Maggie,
On behalf of NYFC(Nepalese Youth For Change),I really appreciate your help for our brothers and sisters.God bless you.
love love love these photos, it is better together, isn't it? lovely!! xxxxxo
Oh, maggie! What a wonderful thing for the kids to experience. The photos were great. my favorite is the canoe.
Love the story and beautiful photos (I just love the one with you in the fanny pack!)
You had me at ziplock bags full of vomit. Beautiful, beautiful. Haha I like picture 31/31 with the kid in the middle getting squished, so cute, they are all glowing! And the elephants! We'll have to go back there some day
Wow! That trip sounds amazing. Your storytelling is amazing. What you are doing is amazing. You are amazing. You have a gift, and you are so inspiring. Thanks so much for sharing.
Fantastic story. True joy-- in this case wonderstruck children ( and some big kids too, Maggie, Jordyn and Marky) up close and personal with a bunch of friendly elephants--is best know when it comes after some adversity. Your story is wonderful in all its aspects, both the joy and the full measure of adversity. I loved reading about this adventure.
Maggie,
You continue to inspire me with your honesty, your humor, your humility and endurance. I have 2 small little girls and some days I find myself overwhelmed and I now will remember you on this van ride and remember just to breathe.
Thank you for sharing, caring and inspiring. Anna
Maggie I laughed so hard I almost cried. You are such an amazing story teller. I really hope someday ( when you are less busy of course!) that you will write a book all about life at KVCH with your 26 beautiful children. I'm so glad that inspite of the hardships that you all had such a good time.~~~:)
Thanks for sharing Maggie. You are the best story teller I know! The pictures were amazing too!
Love you
i can't see the pictures...hmm...perhaps it's my work computer...will check back at home...looking forward to seeing them! :)
Maggie, this was a great trip commentary, i did laugh so much.
But as usual you made your kids had the greatest of time, they are 26 luckiest one in Nepal thanks to YOU and your team.
Thanks for being such an inspiration to ALL of us.